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Good bye Bali

Good morning one last time shakey Indonesia!

Today we are leaving at around 8pm for Dubai, so we won’t move around so much. Our plans for the day are to relax on the beach, have some lunch, a last balinese massage and finally go to the airport.

Tonight there were no more big earthquake so we slept well.

So, let’s start with a good breakfast! Sara went with her Indonesian breakfast while Antonio sticked to the American one.

Bacon, sausages, fruits, and waffles.

Nasi Goreng as become a must for Sara

Some kind of folded fried banana pancake

After breakfast we packed our luggage and left it at the reception, so we could use the motorbike freely.

The hotel provided also a private beach club, easing us from renting an umbrella. We stayed on the beach for a couple of hours. Antonio fell asleep, while Sara went exploring the water.

The first thing that hits you in Sanur beach are the dead corals in the sand, literally! It’s impossible to walk without flip-flops as the corals are sharp and it’s easy to get cut.
The beach has more corals than sand, and there are small coral “islands” very close to the shore to which you can easily walk to getting wet just to the waist.

It’s very likely you can find huge amazing shells, and it’s a challenge to walk in the water without stepping on a starfish. Those were black, hairy and big, but very pretty!
After getting sun burned once again we went for a walk on the promenade along the beach.
It was full of restaurants and locals offering massages and other services. We bought a small statue of a flying pig. I seriously have no clue why. We also affined our bargaining skills, now we were able to buy stuff at less than half the starting price.

We wrote a few tips and suggestions for that at the end if this post.

Yesterday we didn’t manage to eat at a popular local warung because of the tsunami warning issued, so we decided to try again for today’s lunch. The warung is Little Bird Sanur, and it’s very easy to find, just follow the nasi goreng smell!

All the reviews were good on the quality of both food and service, but the portions were huge!

We ordered four differents dishes. As the first arrived we realized we f@#ked-up. The sizes were really monstrous.

Chicken noodles

Chicken, rice and tomatoes.

Healthy sandwich

Cap Cay – Veggies soup

Everything was delicious!

Stuffed and happy we went back to the hotel and while Sara was having her balinese massage Antonio went for a food hunt to bring something local home.

The balinese massage was nice but not at all relaxing, as it alternated good moments and painful ones.

We gathered our luggages and took a taxi to the airport. This time we went along the only highway of Bali, it’s built on water and it’s quite impressive.

Denpasar airport is bigger than we remembered, so we shopped a little and went through the very slow baggage drop.

Off we go! 9 hours of flight, 8 hours of stopover in Dubai airport and finally 6 hours of flight to finally get to Bologna!

Since this last post is quite short we decided to collect some tips/facts we apprehended during our two weeks there.

Some curiosity…

  • Bali is literally invaded by roosters. You may see them or not, but you’ll hear them. Every day. At all times. And some of them don’t even know how to sing. It’s like despacito, but worst!

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  • Bamboo is used for everything. You’ll find straws made with young bamboo, baskets, boxes, etc… Bamboo is also used as construction material, to build scaffolding, ladders, and to support new floors as house construction goes.

  • When you rent a motorcycle, you will need to refuel, as all of them are sucked dry before being given to you… The only official retailer is Pertamine. You’ll find these big stations basically everywhere in the cities and in the main roads. Otherwise you can just refuel on “private contractors”. If you look closely at the corner of the streets, roads or muletracks you’ll see shelves full of vodka bottles both yellowish or blue. That’s gasoline. A bottle of the blue one costs around 10k idr. It’s more expensive than in the official stations, but you wont get stranded.

  • Balinese people are curious. It may happen to be approached by someone while walking, staring at shops, or even riding the motorcycle. They will ask you where you are going, where you are from, or more. They need to know everything about everyone. If they are not trying to sell you something the will actually help you if you need help. So don’t panic, smile, and answer politely.
  • You are going to eat a lot of fruit. Most likely you will eat dragon fruit. If you do be aware that this tasty son of a bitch will paint your urine of a lovely red colour. When in the morning you’ll pee don’t be scared. That’s not blood. It’s just crimson deliciousness.

Some tips for best experience…

  • Taxi. Once you land in Bali’s airport you’ll need to get to your hotel. Do not catch the first person who screams “taxy?” at you. The only official taxy company on the island is BlueBird. It’s cheap, safe, and will save you money. For best experience download the Android or iPhone app. With that you’ll be able to book a taxi, check the fare, see the taxi cars around you, and check the path on a map. The only downside is that you will only find BlueBird in Denpasar area. They are hard to find in Ubud and inexistent in Lovina.
  • Motorcycle. If you feel brave enough and have experience with a motorcycle, the best way to move around is renting one. You’ll find scooter rentals everywhere in every city you go. You can bargain with them on the road or ask your hotel to get one for you. Before you pay for it check blinkers, front and stop lights, tires and breaks. Driving in Balinese traffic may be a stressful experience and you don’t want you tire to go flat, or your stop light to not work properly. Once you have it, go with the flow! Bali’s traffic is like a river with a strong current. You can not stop in the middle of it or go against it. Just follow what everyone is doing. Rules do not apply here. You can ride on the sidewalk, pass cars both on the left or right. Even pass red lights if you have to turn left to follow the road. Just, do not get in the way of others.
  • Driving in Nusa Penida. The best, and only, way to move around Nusa Penida is with a scooter. Only problem is the road. It looks nice near the coast and the port, but as you ride across the island to get to the beaches and bays, the roads will degenerate. The best way to describe it is to imagine a plowed field where someone has dropped first hundreds of bombs and then rocks, stones, and pebbles. We have seen many people going around scratched and badly hurt from falling from their bikes. Don’t thrust the roads.
  • Buying goods. You’ll buy souvenirs. Or fruit, or t-shirts. And there will be no price tag. So you’ll have to bargain. They will tell you a price. This will be highly above the real price of the object you’re trying to buy. You can play it nice, bargaining slowly trying to lower the price, or you can use math. Half the first price, remove 10%, get out that amount in cash and offer it. They will look at you like you’re mad, say no and other things. It’s fine. With still money in your hands, walk away and say bye. They will call you back. And will still rake in.
  • Money. You will need cash. Despite most shops and restaurants accept credit and debit cards, if you get out of the big cities you’ll need paper money for most transactions. Also for Taxi, as not all of them accept credit cards. Do not worry. ATM are almost everywhere. Look for a CircleK, AlfaMart, or IndoMart and you’ll find one. We, like many others, had some problems with the ATM at the airport. Seems like not all the ATM work on the same circuit. You will have to find the one that works for you.

Living Kyoto in Gold, Silver and Green.

Do you know that feeling when you are comfortable and warm under the blanket, while outside is raining and the weather channel forecasts more rain, wind and temperatures drop, and you don’t wanna leave the bed?

Ok. That was us this morning! But we had a perfectly planned itinerary and could not avoid the fact that we are here to see places, not to laze in bed.

The first step to take to fight laziness is a good breakfast. Red beans dorayaki (I’m starting to hate them) and a lava-hot coffee.

Second step is to take a scorching-hot shower.

Filled and washed, we took our umbrellas and went out. With the map at fingertips, we took the bus from Gion to Ginkakujimichi. As we left the bus we smelled something familiar in the air.

Few meters away lied a bakery. The first real bakery since we came to Japan. We just couldn’t resist and bought a couple pastries.

Satisfied, we walked the 5 minutes to the Ginkaku-ji Temple, also known as the Silver Pavilion.

As the temple is located far from the city center, basically up a hill, we had the idea that it would have been a quiet place where to admire some Zen Buddhist culture.

We were so wrong. The place was invaded by a multitude of Chinese tourists. I admit that I’m always critical with people that instead of enjoying a place they are visiting, spend their time screaming to their friends, laughing, taking tons of selfies. You can do that in you village you ducking duck!

If you add to the horde rain and umbrellas, which made you bump on somebody with every movement, you have the perfect recipe for a stressful day.
But we didn’t give up. We tried to enjoy the visit.

Ginkaku-ji is a Zen temple established in the 15th century by the then Shogun. Despite the common name is Ginkaku-ji, it is formally called villa Higashiyama.

This is the place where the modern Life style of the Japanese started.

Even now the Higashiyama and Zen culture can be seen here.
After spending almost one hour walking among ponds, moss and drysand gardens we decided to move to the next daily attraction.

After the Silver Pavilion, we went to the Golden Pavilion, Kinkaku-ji.

Kinkaku-ji is a shariden, a Buddhist hall containing relics of Buddha.

The garden and buildings, centered in the Golden Pavilion, were said to represent the Pure Land of Buddha in this world. In 1994 the entire area was registered as a World Cultural Heritage Site.

Here the crowd was even worse. Despite the building is amazing, the only place where to admire it is a small area on the other side of the pond surrounding the building. Useless to say that we couldn’t even move, less take decent picture.

And we were lucky. People said that on sunny day the number of visitors is at least triple… 

Tired to fight with other tourist we decided to move on, and took the bus first and a train then to the Bamboo Forest, in the area of Arashiyama.

On the way there we bumped into a charming temple complex.

Arashiyama is close to the forest in the north west side of Kyoto. The atmosphere was so quite that we (almost) forgot the chaos of the morning.

Together with a random German couple we met, we walked into the Bamboo Forest.

This place was so beautiful. If you have seen the Chinese movie “House of Flying Daggers”, you will understand the beauty expressed by a bamboo forest.

Pictures just can’t explain how amazing this place is.

Time flies when you’re having a good time, and we had to go to Nishiki Market,a narrow, five block long shopping street lined by more than one hundred shops and restaurants. Do not forget the one single temple lost among the shops…

Here Sara decided to try some creepy food…

This poor mini octopus was not only boiled (probably alive) but his head was filled with an egg…

Poor thing.

After Nishiki, we took an overcrowded bus to Kyoto station to book the ticket for tomorrow Shinkansen.

We could have done it tomorrow morning, but better safe than sorry.

As we still had our daily pass we took the last bus of the day to Gion, our district. Looking for a place where to have dinner, we decided to go for Gyoza.

We found a small restaurant, with only three tables and some seats in front of the counter. They only served two kind of gyoza, but they were super tasty.

Leek with garlic or ginger. They may not sound good, but believe me, they tasted amazing.

Walking back we found a nice bridge just a couple of hundred meters from our place.

We had no idea there was a river so close… 

Tomorrow we will spend almost 4 hours traveling to our next destination: Koyasan!

So, better sleep and get some rest.

See you with our next post.